This tutorial is about how to make a loose and easy trouser that looks elegant at the same time. It’s a little like jogging pants but with a more fitted leg. Making well fitted pants is rather complicated but this pattern is very executable. I used a fine wool crepe with a satin waistband to create a simple, yet effortlessly chic look. I hope you can easily follow my instructions and make yourself a cool pair of joggers.
I measure my hip width and add 8cm. I divide this by 4 and mark this on my pattern, this is the red line as you can see here. The vertical lines mark the middle front and the side seam of the trouser.
I take an existing pants with a more loose fit (not too oversized). I copy the crotch of the front by laying it at the middle front seam just below the waistband and going down following the curve of the original pants.
I draw a second horizontal line starting from the crotch. When dividing this line in 2 you mark the middle of the leg.
I use this line to draw the knee and the hem of my pants. The width for the hem is my ankle width + 8cm divided by two. The inside seam of the trouser leg is 64cm. Now I can connect all these points by drafting a flowing line.
I draw a slight curve from the hip towards the waist going up by 1cm.
For the backside of the pants I copy the front and cut into the pattern at the hip line. I use the existing trousers again and copy the middle back seam just below the waist to the crotch.
I make flowing lines at the side seam and from the back crotch to the knee. It’s important to keep the same length on the side seam and the inner leg seam to keep the leg balanced. Now your pattern is finished, you just need to add seam allowance everywhere. I use 1 cm of seam allowance on all seams and 6cm at the leg hem for the elasticated cuff.
I’m using this beautiful fluid wool crepe and sew everything accordingly. The width of the waistline on my pattern is the same width to create a straight waistband in black satin. When stitching it onto the pants I leave the waistband open for 12cm at the middle back for the elastic band.
There are no darts in this pattern. To make it fitted at the waist without using an elastic band all way round I made some buttonholes on the front. The buttons will create a pleat on both sides. On the middle back of the waistband I only use 15cm of elastic band.
The buttons are handmade with the black wool I used for the pants. Because these button kits never seem to work (it’s probably just me…) I sew the fabric buttons by hand.
My new joggers! They fit perfectly and look so classy in this light wool crepe. I do think by using a colourful printed cotton with a fully elasticated waistband it will look amazing as well. A leopard print or a bright flower print, oooh yes…