Summer in the city

summer dress for girls

Yes, we have a beach in Antwerp!  It’s a narrow stroke of sand on the left bank of the river Schelde.  It’s forbidden to swim there and the view isn’t that nice.  By all means, it’s not perfect but I enjoy the silence and the ships passing.   I don’t like the crowded seaside anyway, thus for me it’s a good hide.  The sun was in town last sunday and it was a perfect day to make pictures of my little girl’s new dress.  A bright printed dress with a summery back detail in a lovely viscose.  This fabric makes her skirt flutter in the breeze, just perfect for taking pictures…

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I use a classic bodice for this dress.  The red lines is how I altered the original bodice.  As you can see I added height on the front shoulder seam (2cm) For the back I only copy the lower part of the bodice.  The bodice for this dress is fully lined and small fabric straps insure everything stays in place. (see sketch).  For the skirt I cut 2 rectangles (fabric width x skirt length 36cm) and gather them at the waist before attaching it to the bodice. The hem is finished with a roll seam.

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A basic top

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An easy pattern and some 20 minutes of sewing, that’s what it took to make this basic top.  It’s just such a great and simple addition to every girl’s wardrobe that I wanted to post it here.  The embellishment on the other hand took more of my patience.  At least it’s a nice way to spend your evenings watching your favourite late night series without feeling to guilty…

making beaded strings beaded ribbons

I’m using these silver coloured beads and sew them onto a satin ribbon by hand.

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I made enough beaded ribbons to make 2 braids.  I sew the embellishment on both shoulders by hand.

pattern tank top

This is how I drafted my basic top pattern:

I started the pattern with the measurements from my chest, hips and length.  Because I’m using a non stretch fabric and I don’t want to use a zipper or buttons I need to add 6cm at chest and hip width.  Of course I want to avoid any problems putting the top on afterwards and at the same time I want to create a loose fit.

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I draft the neckline and the armhole from front and backside.  I cut the pattern in the middle front and reassemble it at the side seams.  Now I can check if the armhole is looking as one fluid line.

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Adding seam allowance.

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I surge all seams and sew the top.  The armhole and neckline are finished by sewing closely to the seam.

This is my basic top pattern, as you can see it’s probably the simplest pattern ever!

 

 

 

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The zigzag dress

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The weather is finally improving and so is my mood for sewing.  Although this means I’m spending more time behind my sewing machine rather than enjoying a gin tonic on my terrace…  But that’s okay, I’m just enjoying it so much.  Nice weather calls for sweet summer dresses!  I’m reworking the LBD I made a few weeks ago in a summer version of colourful Zigzag stripes, adding some contrast ribbon and using my daughter as my muse.  Fortunately she’s enjoying it as much as I do…

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The pattern is the same as the black button dress, but now I’m using a red cotton ribbon to finish the seams at the waist.

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I stitch the ribbon onto the bodice and onto the skirt to create a contrasting detail at the waist .  After that I stitch the vertical dart, the ribbon ends are now nicely finished between this seam.

zigzag dress with fake collar  my girl wearing the zigzag dress

I had a last minute inspiration and created a fake collar with the leftover from the cotton ribbon, I thought it would look great with the zigzag print.

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So proud of my work, I’m having this gin tonic after all!

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The chic and easy joggers tutorial

My sporty chic pants

This tutorial is about how to make a loose and easy trouser that looks elegant at the same time.  It’s a little like jogging pants but with a more fitted leg.  Making well fitted pants is rather complicated but this pattern is very executable.  I used a fine wool crepe with a satin waistband to create a simple, yet effortlessly chic look.  I hope you can easily follow my instructions and make yourself a cool pair of joggers.

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I measure my hip width and add 8cm.  I divide this by 4 and mark this on my pattern, this is the red line as you can see here.  The vertical lines mark the middle front and the side seam of the trouser.

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I take an existing pants with a more loose fit (not too oversized). I copy the crotch of the front by laying it at the middle front seam just below the waistband and going down following the curve of the original pants.

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I draw a second horizontal line starting from the crotch.  When dividing this line in 2 you mark the middle of the leg.

I use this line to draw the knee and the hem of my pants.  The width for the hem is my ankle width + 8cm divided by two.  The inside seam of the trouser leg is 64cm.  Now I can connect all these points by drafting a flowing line.

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I draw a slight curve from the hip towards the waist going up by 1cm.

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For the backside of the pants I copy the front and cut into the pattern at the hip line.  I use the existing trousers again and copy the middle back seam just below the waist to the crotch.

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I make flowing lines at the side seam and from the back crotch to the knee.  It’s important to keep the same length on the side seam and the inner leg seam to keep the leg balanced.  Now your pattern is finished, you just need to add seam allowance everywhere.  I use 1 cm of seam allowance on all seams and 6cm at the leg hem for the elasticated cuff.

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I’m using this beautiful fluid wool crepe and sew everything accordingly. The width of the waistline on my pattern is the same width to create a straight waistband in black satin.  When stitching it onto the pants I leave the waistband open for 12cm at the middle back for the elastic band.

waistband pants handmade buttons

There are no darts in this pattern.  To make it fitted at the waist without using an elastic band all way round I made some buttonholes on the front. The buttons will create a pleat on both sides.  On the middle back of the waistband I only use 15cm of elastic band.

The buttons are handmade with the black wool I used for the pants.  Because these button kits never seem to work (it’s probably just me…) I sew the fabric buttons by hand.

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My new joggers!  They fit perfectly and look so classy in this light wool crepe. I do think by using a colourful printed cotton with a fully elasticated waistband it will look amazing as well.  A leopard print or a bright flower print, oooh yes…

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The little little black dress

tutorial LBD little girl  black buttons

Here it is, (finally, after caught up with work) : ‘the LLBD’.  It started with some leftover black buttons, some yards of black popeline and the urge to combine this somehow.  I know, using black for a little girl is somewhat unusual but this dress looks so adorable on her.  It’s amazing how this easy pattern resulted in such a well fitted dress, and in my mind it’s the LBD ‘Audrey’ would have liked as well.

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The few measurements I took were her tummy, neckline and the length.  I started from a rectangle based on the dress length and the skirt width.  Half way the rectangle I marked the waist and from that point I drew the bodice shaping a smaller rectangle.  Then adding darts, a neckline and armholes.  Easy, no?

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For the back I copied the front pattern, adding 1cm of seam allowance at the centre back.   I made a facing for the neckline and armholes.

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When cutting the pattern I cut into the front part until the dart.

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The  waist is gathered to fit the bodice and sewn together.  Afterwards I sew the darts.

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This looks nice already, doesn’t it?

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I sew the shoulders and facing.  It would have been easier to use a binding to finish the dress but this way I create a more sophisticated look.

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I sew the side seams and hem.  I prefer a hem with enough seam allowance,  5cm for this dress.

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I added loops at the shoulders to narrow the shoulder width. To make this dress more glamorous I sewed on large black buttons around the neck opening.  These buttons never seemed to have found there way back to the original clothes but hey, this is much more fun!

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Love You Audrey, xxx

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Old one out, new one in!

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There are dresses hanging in my wardrobe for ages waiting to be worn again.  I keep pulling them out and hanging them back, wrong colour, wrong shape, wrong something are keeping me from wearing them again.  I never get rid of them and it seams funny somehow in this throw-away society and fast fashion decade.  It’s against my nature and my love for clothes to remove them but keeping things is also holding on to the past.  Sometimes it’s good to let go though, finally I will repurpose this lime dress.  My daughter will look absolutely stunning in this colour.

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I start by comparing all measurements of my dress with her dress.  I think it’s good to keep as many seams from the original.  It will spare me some time but also avoid damage on the fabric.  I decide to keep the original neckline because of the pleating and the back slit.

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The front and backside of the dress are separated by cutting the side seams and shoulders.  As you can see the lining is still fixed at the neckline.

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I cut of at the shoulders to make a smaller neck opening.  From the new shoulder I measure the total length (+3cm seam) I need for the little dress and cut of the hem.

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To make a smaller armhole I have to reduce the width. I’m cutting of at the side seams.

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The neckline was still too big and I resolved this by adding an extra pleat with a topstitch on both sides.  When repurposing old clothes you need to be inventive and find creative solutions because the dimensions will never be perfect.  That’s what’s actually the most fun.  You can never entirely predict your end result.

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The most tricky part is to assemble everything in a beautiful manner.  I close side seams from the outer shell fabric and the lining separately.  After that I finish the armhole by stitching the fabric and the lining together from the inside.

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The neckline was still too wide, I added more pleats at the middle front and topstitched it.

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And finally I make a tunnel at the waist for the fabric belt.  I start by making a buttonhole at the middle front in the upper fabric layer.  Then I stitch on top of both layers (lining + fabric) creating a tunnel.  I shortened the original belt length and pull it trough the buttonhole.  After that I finish the hem of the fabric and lining separately.

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My little girl has a new dress to enrich her wardrobe and it doesn’t seem like there’s something missing in mine.

xxx

Made By Me

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Refashioned bangles

I’ve been working on several projects the last week and it seems like I’m not getting anything finished.  So while my sewing machine is doing overtime I’m posting something without electricity, just a bit of sewing by hand and using my beloved tube of Pattex.  My bangles are totally ready to get a new skin!

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I measure the total width of fabric I’ll need for covering the bangle.  I’m including 2cm extra for seam allowance.

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I’m cutting a piece of my beautiful Zara scarf.  Don’t worry, I’ll be fixing it as before!

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The fabric is glued onto the bangle at one side with some tape so it doesn’t slip whilst sewing.

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Using small hand stitches I’m covering my bangle hiding the seam allowance at the same time.  When I’m finished sewing I twist the fabric around until the seam is hidden from the inside.  My matching bangle is finished!  Up to the second one…

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A piece of real snakeskin I bought some years ago on a flea market has finally found its purpose.

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I measure the bangle and cut 2 strokes out of the leather not adding any seam allowance.

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Yep, Pattex again!

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I’m pulling the skin around the bangle and leave it to dry.

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I take the second piece and cut the edge following the structure of the skin.

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As I’m sticking on the other piece I try to match the snakeskin pattern as well as possible.

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I cut the loose edge every 1,5cm towards the bangle and smear on some more glue.

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The strokes are pushed tightly against the inside of the bangle on both sides.

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Mixing and matching it with my other bangles…or pumps for that matter…

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My 30 minute dress!

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This must be the easiest dress I’ve ever made!  I created a tube dress in a navy cotton single jersey and finished it off with a sparkling trim.(bargain of last weekend flea market visit).  This fabric doesn’t need a lot of finishing and allows me to cut the hem without seaming it.  I’m just waiting for the right opportunity to flaunt my new dress!

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Dit moet echt het eenvoudiste jurkje zijn dat ik ooit maakte!  Ik creëerde een buisvorm in een donkerblauwe katoenjersey en bovenaan werkte ik het af met een blingbling boordje (rommelmarkt koopje van vorig weekend).  Deze stof heeft weinig afwerking nodig dus onderaan heb ik de stof afgesneden zonder om te zoomen.  Nu nog wachten op de juiste gelegenheid om met mijn jurkje te paraderen!

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I use a firm stretch knitted fabric with a total height of 1,30m.  The width is 22cm smaller than my actual hip width to create a narrow tube.

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I create a tube by sewing both sides together. (I surge the seam but a zigzag stitch is fine too)

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On the top I fold the tube downwards about 20cm to make it more firm.  I fix the fabric with a small stitch onto the seam.

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I’m gathering the tube lightly at the side seam.  This will make the tube dress a bit shorter and easier to keep pleats in position.

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When I turn the dress inside out with the right fabric side up it looks like this.  This becomes my back seam.

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Finally I add some sparkles.  This is a beaded ribbon I have sewn on by hand, I’m using it only at the front side of the dress because it’s a non stretch.

flea market finds

Last week’s flea market bargain: a pleated tulle ribbon, a pearl beaded collar, leather embossed flowers, an organza collar and the blingbling ribbon for today’s dress.

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Double layer cropped top

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Sometimes the amount of effort you put into a piece doesn’t give you the credit it deserves, you wonder if it’s all worth it.  This top on the other hand is very simple and I finished it in only one hour.  Without being too modest I think the result is pretty good.  As always I used an easy rectangle shape but the fabric is the main reason for this easy to make top.  It’s a very light jersey and you don’t have to surge any seam, all seams come with a raw edge.

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Soms denk je ‘ is het sop de kool wel waard’ wanneer je uren zit te zwoegen achter je naaimachine en het resultaat navenant is.  Maar dit topje is dus in tegendeel een werk van lange adem, ik deed er welgeteld één uur over en zonder al te bescheiden te zijn, ik vind dat het resultaat er best mag zijn.  Zoals steeds gebruik ik een eenvoudige rechthoek maar het is vooral de stof die het hem doet.  Een lichte jersey waarbij je de naden niet moet flatlocken of rolzoompjes moet maken, alle zomen blijven met geknipte rand.

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cropped top pattern

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1) Remove the self edge and cut the fabric vertically in 2 equal pieces.  Fold the upper sideof each piece  down in a way that the upper half is shorter than the lower half.

Knip de zelfkant weg en snij de stof vertikaal in 2 gelijke delen.  Vouw de bovenzijde van elk stuk naar onder zodat de bovenste zijde korter is dan de onderste.

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2) Cut both pieces horizontally at fabric fold.  Cut out half a circle in the front and a deep slit in the  back.  Sew both layers together where you cut them and turn inside out.  Than sew around the circle and on top of the slit to create a tunnel for the string.

Snij beide stukken horizontaal door aan de stofvouw.  Snij een halve cirkel uit het voorpand en een diepe split in het rugpand.  Stik de panden daar aan elkaar en draai de stof binnenstebuiten. Dan stik je een tunnel rond de halve cirkel en bovenaan de rugsplit.

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3) Cut 3 strings of fabric (about 1.5 – 2cm) and make a braid.  Pull the braid trough the tunnel of the front and back of the top.  Close the side seams (sew the 2 layers separate)

Snij 3 repen stof (circa 1.5 à 2cm) en vlecht deze stroken.  Trek de vlecht via de tunnel van de top door voor- en rugzijde.  Sluit de zijnaden (stik de 2 lagen apart dicht)

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There it is!  That wasn’t very difficult, was it? You could also try a longer top or a dress based on this idea.

En klaar!  Dat was eenvoudig, niet?  Je kan ook een lange top of een jurkje uitproberen gebaseerd op dit idee.

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Yes, I did it!

Voila! Ik ben gestart met mijn eigen ‘sew it yourself’ blog!  Het is die onvermijdelijke drang om mijn obsessie met patronen, stoffen, knopen, zakjes, zomen en welke details je ook maar kan terugvinden op een kledingstuk te delen met anderen.  Wat kan je verwachten?  Tja, ik ben een modeontwerpster en ik tracht bij te blijven met de laatste trends in modeland.  Het komt erop neer dat ik kledingstukken maak die een surplus bieden aan wat er reeds in mijn kleerkast hangt en dit zonder dagen achter mijn naaimachine te hoeven zwoegen.  Ik hou het simpel, (misschien niet altijd…) en ik bied alle tips & tricks aan om elk project tot een goed einde te brengen. Door jullie feedback probeer ik een forum te creëren voor iedereen met interesse in kleding en zonder angst om op het pedaal te duwen, van je naaimachine dus.  En uiteindelijk, de voldoening wanneer je zegt ‘dit heb ik gemaakt’ is onbetaalbaar.

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Finally, I started my very own ‘sew it yourself ‘ blog!  I felt an inevitable drive to share my obsession for pattern design, fabrics, buttons, pockets, trimmings and everything else you can find on a peace of clothing.  What can you expect?  Well, I’m a fashion designer so I try to keep up to date with the latest trends.  Items that will add value to my wardrobe of everyday and won’t keep me behind my sewing machine for days, that’s what I’m looking for.  I’ll keep it easy, (maybe not allways…) and try to give you all the tips and tricks you need for a great result.  With your feedback I will try to make this a place for everyone with an interest for clothes and who is not afraid to push the pedal, of a sewing machine that is.  And finally, the fulfillment to say ‘this is made by me’ is priceless.

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